This is an original swing arm.Not suitable for higher horse power then the standard of the Vmax
This is a braced swing arm. Delivered by Nitromax.This one is tested with 180 BHP on it.Seems to be strong enough for my use.
On the left are the original pivot pins and on the right modified stainless steel ones. These pins are delivered by Henny Raats. The modified pins fit precisely in the bearings. By this modification , the free play of the pins reduced to almost zero. And by this the cornering of the bike will improve.
Remove your footpeg to make some room for removing the cover. Then loosen all bolts from the cover. Pull the cover towards you. Keep in mind that the gasket can be very sticky.
On the inside you have a bolt which holds the crossed plate on the cover. When removing , use a grip pliers to remove or drill the bolt out of the cover.
When the crossed plate is removed you can make a circle on the cover like on this picture.
Drill a hole near the line you made, the go jig sawing, be sure to have coffee ready because it is a hell to do.
From Perspex you make a cover. It can be 5 till 6 millimeters for the best result for filling the groove. This is also done by jig sawing ( again have coffee ready ). Jigsaw as slow as possible, also the drilling in the cover, too fast will crack the cover. When the cover is ready, you can drill holes and make some thread in the aluminum cover. I have done it with metric 4, 3 is also a good size but smaller or lager is not better for the looks.
Here is the cover sealed with a silicone mastic and bolted on with stainless steel hex wrench bolts. Be sure before sealing the bolts fit well and the groove and Perspex are solvent and grease free. This can be done with some white spirit or something similar. Dry the places which has to be sealed. When all your work is done and everything goes well, you have a nice Clear Clutch Cover. Homemade and lots cheaper then buying a machined one. How slower you work and give it some time, the better it looks.
Another change, removed the silicon gasket and placed a rubber O ring. Looks better and works better. The cover cracked because of the torque of the bolts and no free play. Now with this O ring it works well, no over tightened bolts and cleaner look.
On the left, the special made nylon solid motor mounts. Delivered by a good friend.
The solid nylon bushings instead of rubber bushings reduces swaying by the frame and is more stiffened. By this the frontpart of the bike is more stable in corners and highspeed driving ( no Mr officer, only at the racetrack ;-) ) Here on the right the bushings are placed into where the original rubber mounts were. Modern motorcycles have this type of mounting. Only touringbikes have rubbermounts for eliminating the vibration of the engine.
This is how your bike looks when modifying to the solid mounts. Looks awfull this way. When you want to figtht with your bike for mounting the rear bushings, just buy them and go on ;-). It is a hell to mount the rear ones. The result was there today, rock steady cornering and no swing from the frame.